Day 3

Poland Art and Culture

One of my most favorite things about visiting foreign countries is learning of the local legends.  Gregory told the story of the two brothers who worked on the towers of the church.  When the younger brother finished his tower first, the elder murdered him in a fit of rage by stabbing him with a knife.  Then when the guilt got to be too much, he confessed his sin in the very church they worked on, and stabbed himself with the same knife he murdered his brother with, and Krakow is said to have kept that very knife and has it on display.  I find it ironic that they would display a murder weapon on the front side of the village square, but the severed head the artist gave to the city is a bit too much, and they keep it a bit more out of the way.

I loved the statue of the Battle of Grunwald, and knowing all the history that it holds.  The Nazis destroyed it in World War II, (because of course they did), but the Polish were eventually able to build a replica of the statue and put it in the spot it once stood.  What’s more, the Oscar Schindler factory has an original piece on display; one of the heads.

I was disappointed to know that photos were not permitted in the church or the palace, because there really was such incredible works of art there.  At first I wondered if it was a spiritual reason, that the bodies of such important people are resting in the church, but then pictures are permitted at the cemeteries.  I think it was likely because too many people ignored the rules of no flash photography, and so those in charge of preserving the sites just said no cameras period.  If it were possible to put in a suggestion box for both places, I would like to say flyers at the various coffins and rooms should be offered with a picture and information on the piece available.  That said, I think my favorite part of the church was actually the doors featuring the skeletons dancing on the swords and crowns, signifying that death does indeed come for everyone, no matter their status.

Holocaust and Memory

I am curious as to what the Jewish population in Krakow is now, because even though it was said to be small, we saw a great deal of Jewish people out and about today, especially at the new synagogue. Obviously there was a celebration happening, and that could be the reason we saw a lot, and they normally do not live in this town.  

I was looking forward to Oscar Schindler’s factory, and it did not disappoint.  Obviously the Holocaust was a terrible occurrence, but to know there were good men like Schindler who defied Hitler, be it openly or covertly, restores a bit of faith in humanity.  I asked our guide if the Swastika tiles on the floor were original, and he said no, and explained that the museum wanted to have them there for the theme of that particular room.  He went on to say that the museum had to apply for it, and explain their reasons for wanting to have it along with the request, because displaying the Swastika flag is illegal in Poland and in Germany, unless it is in a museum.  I would like to see the United States follow that example for the Confederate flag, though I seriously doubt that will ever come to pass.

I was surprised that our Schindler guide was allowed to speak of the Polish compliancy with the Nazis.  He even said that the Polish who were guilty of working with the Nazis, whether by choice or fear had to answer for those decisions once the war was over.  The bookshop even sold Jan T. Gross’ Neighbors.  I wonder if in the same way the museums are permitted to display the Swastika, they can say a bit more about why the Polish complied with the Nazis, at least for now.  After leaving the museum, Gregory pointed out to us the remains of the ghetto wall, and I am glad to know that it is preserved, despite the memories it holds.

Despite the church being absolutely frigid, I am glad I attended the concert.  I have watch the Phantom of the Opera film before, and I was very impressed with how a string quartet was able to perform what is usually a piece done by a much bigger orchestra.  They did bring me to tears, not because of the Schindler’s List theme or what was identified as Chopin’s Waltz on the program, though Dr. Rotter said that was not what it was.  I recognized it as Nella Fantasia as sung by Celtic Woman.  What made me cry was Glenn Miller’s Moonlight Serenade, which I know to be a Frank Sinatra song.  My great-grandfather, who passed away last June, was a big Sinatra fan, he had even seen him perform at local bars well before he became famous.  Many a day I spent with Papa just listening to Frank Sinatra with him, and hearing the quartet play it made me think of him and cry.